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BIOGRAPHIES
RITTS, HERB
USA, 1952-2002
Herbert Ritts, Jr. enjoyed a comfortable childhood. Born on August
13, 1952 to parents who owned a profitable furniture business in
California, Ritts was part of a family who lived in a mansion in
Beverly Hills and also had a summer home on fashionable Santa Catalina
Island. Young Ritts grew up in glamorous surroundings, with movie
stars for neighbors.
Ritts had not decided what profession to pursue, but he certainly
was not considering a career in photography, which he had only recently
taken up as a hobby. It happened, however, that in 1978 he had his
camera with him when he and a friend--the then little-known actor
Richard Gere--had to stop at a gas station to repair a flat tire.
Among the pictures that Ritts snapped was one of a sweaty Gere clad
in jeans and a tank top, his arms languidly stretched over his head,
and a cigarette dangling from his mouth. Soon thereafter, when Gere
received widespread attention for his role in Paul Schrader's American
Gigolo (1980), Ritts sent his photos to Gere's publicist. "A
few months later she sent me Vogue, Esquire, and Elle. They all
used my pictures. I got checks too," Ritts recalled. Newsweek
also ran a photo of Jon Voight that Ritts had managed to take when
he made his way onto the set of Franco Zeffirelli's The Champ (1979).
Ritts had found his calling as a photographer, and his pictures
were in demand. Within a few years his photos were gracing the covers
of Vanity Fair, Vogue, GQ, Harper's Bazaar, and Interview. He also
did fashion spreads for important designers such as Gianni Versace
and Ralph Lauren.
Ritts's photographs were the basis of a number of provocative
and extremely successful advertising campaigns, including ones for
Revlon, Donna Karan, the Gap, and Calvin Klein. Hank Stuever of
the Washington Post commented that "most of his homoerotic
'nudes' actually wore Calvin Klein briefs."
Ritts delighted in the portrayal of an idealized--even exaggerated--human
form. One of his best-known works, "Fred with Tires" (1984),
shows an almost impossibly muscular young man clad only in jeans
that sag slightly below his waist.
Ritts became well known for dramatic black-and-white photographs
that focused on a single part of the subject's body. His portrait
of Olympic heptathlon champion Jackie Joyner-Kersee captures her
lower torso and powerful thighs in mid-leap; her head appears only
in shadow on the ground. Many of Ritts's photographs celebrate the
well-developed body. Some of his images have been compared to classical
statuary because of the exquisiteness of the subjects' form. Other
photos, however, show human vulnerability: Christopher Reeve posing
in his wheelchair, Elizabeth Taylor revealing her scar after brain
surgery, the brilliant physicist Stephen Hawking struggling against
his frailty.
Ritts published a number of books of photographs, including Pictures
(1988), Men-Women (1989), Duo (1991), Notorious (1992), Africa (1994),
Modern Souls (1995), and Work (1996). The publication of Work coincided
with an exhibition of Ritts's photographs at the Boston Museum of
Fine Arts. Museum director Malcolm Rogers described Ritts as having
"an ability to create unforgettable images of great force and
beauty" and also "a sense of the bizarre, of style and
drama, [and] of erotic energy." He added that Ritts's images
show "a world without barriers of race or barriers of sexuality."
Two of Ritts's books, however, speak to issues of race and sexuality.
The photos in Africa depict the daily lives of indigenous peoples
of eastern Africa. Ritts was pleased when Nelson Mandela praised
the book, commenting that "it reminded him of his childhood."
Duo celebrated the relationship of 1983 Mr. Universe Bob Paris
and his then-partner Rob Jackson. Ritts's male nudes have been described
as having "a profoundly intimate feeling." The photographer
himself felt that his pictures reflected a "classic sensuality"
rather than a "gay sensibility." Nevertheless, although
his images are widely admired by mainstream audiences, they have
a particular appeal to gay viewers. Ritts was always candid about
his own sexuality. He realized that he was gay while he was in college.
He soon came out to his parents, who were accepting and supportive.
In 1993 Ritts appeared in The Gay '90s, an NBC news special about
the life of gays in the last decade of the twentieth century. After
the program aired, he received many letters, some from gay teens
who had contemplated suicide. Ritts stated that he had not considered
himself a role model, but "you suddenly get one of these letters,
[and] you realize how important it is that there be encouragement
for gay people." Although he is best known for his still photographs,
Ritts also directed music videos, including two MTV Award-winners,
Janet Jackson's "Love Will Never Do (Without You)" (Best
Female Video, 1991) and Chris Isaak's "Wicked Game" (Best
Male Video, 1991). In addition, he directed Madonna's "Cherish"
(1989), in which the singer cavorted on a beach with "hunky
mermen," as well as videos for Shakira, 'NSYNC, Jennifer Lopez,
and Britney Spears.
Ritts will also be remembered for his vigorous fund-raising efforts
in the quest for a cure for AIDS, in particular for his efforts
on behalf of amFAR, the American Foundation for AIDS Research. Ritts
kept working until just a few days before his death. Among his last
projects were the cover shot for the March 2003 issue of Vanity
Fair and a photo session with United Nations Secretary General Kofi
Annan.
Ritts died in Los Angeles on December 26, 2002, of complications
of pneumonia. He had been diagnosed as HIV-positive years before,
and although his death was not specifically HIV-related, the virus
had compromised his immune system.
He is survived by his partner, Erik Hyman, an entertainment attorney.
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